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Friday, June 8, 2007

A Tale of City Pigeons on their Way, Perhaps, to Better Things

Despite its numerous disadvantages, I rather love my one-bedroom apartment on the Upper West Side, near Columbia. Yes, it's a four-story walk-up, with stairwells so narrow that my new sofa had to be taken apart before it could be carried up them. The landlord, like the vast majority of landlords here, is a rapacious slug who gets irritated when I call about the constantly broken washer and dryer. (Use them at your own risk, he grumps.) And the rent is a hefty $1,950 a month.

But for Manhattan it's big, with a terrace where I set out moss roses in the warmth--portulaca like little dogs that turn their faces to the sun as it glides across the flat sky. At $1,950 a month, it's a relative steal. It's remarkably quiet, though nothing can muffle the frequent car alarms--do even the police pay attention to them? And it's pleasantly eccentric, with ivy slinking into my unscreened window and a large hole cut right through the bedroom wall by my bed--an unused air-conditioner opening now protected by a removable metal cover.

The pigeons on the Upper West Side--those filthy rats with wings--love that hole. To them, it's a safe haven, deep and wide and sheltered from the rain. Now that it's nearly summer, I am frequently awakened by the soft, creepy hooing of pigeons a foot from my bed, separated by nothing more than a slim metal sheet. When I bang on the cover, they shuffle heavily and beat their wings in graceless retreat.

But last Thursday, however much I banged, the hooing continued. Exasperated, I pulled off the cover, glared into the hole and reeled back in pure dismay. A pigeon was squatting there, refusing to leave and no wonder. Beside it was a small, pale egg. It had clearly just been laid.

I replaced the cover, sank back against the pillows and pondered. Living with the mamma and poppa pigeons and a couple of mewling babies for weeks, a foot from my head on the pillow, seemed like too unsavory for words.

It wouldn't work to move it. Where could I put it? It's a forty-foot sheer drop from that window. If I took the egg down the stairs and left it in a niche somewhere, the mother would lose it forever and it would die. Obviously, I couldn't kill it. I couldn't even get the super to do it. Putting out a contract is putting out a contract.

The next morning, I checked again and saw a second egg on a few scattered twigs, which, according to the net, is a typical pigeon's nest. It would take a month or longer for them to hatch, wean and fly off, and by that time, the website assured me, the mother would have laid two more eggs. When the whole family had finally gone its way, near the end of summer, the empty nest would be a thick, gaggingly smelly mound of guano.

I called Laura Kaufman, a wise counselor and a professor of Buddhist art history who is part-way through the three-year retreat at Gampo Abbey.

"It's Saga Dawa!" she said, referring to the Tibetan holiday celebrating the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and parinirvana. It's said that any meditation or virtuous deeds done that day would be multiplied 10 million times. "Don't you dare kill it."

Were evil deeds similarly multiplied? I wasn't about to find out the hard way.

Anyway, it was obviously unseemly to wish harm on pigeons and their babies, whatever their state of hygiene and however discordant their voices. After all, pigeons go way back in Buddhism. The Jataka Tales tell of how the Buddha, in a previous incarnation, cut off a pigeon-sized hunk of flesh to save a pigeon from a hawk's hungry maw. What if one of these pigeons was actually a present-day Darma Dode, the son of Marpa, who, when fatally injured after falling from his horse, transferred his consciousness into a just-deceased pigeon and flew on to India, where he found a young man's corpse to revive and live in as a bodhisattva?

And then there was the song I learned from Khenpo Tsultrim Gyamtso--"Song to a Pigeon Goddess Girl: on keeping view, meditation, conduct and fruition free of one-upmanship. "

For a few days I stewed before finally facing reality. I had no alternative. I'd just have to spend the summer enduring the pigeon parents and their fledglings. With a somewhat martyr-like and self-satisfied air, I resigned myself to the inevitable.

Then, strangely, the pigeons quieted down completely. For two days, they uttered no sounds, none at all. Did nesting somehow quiet the noisy pigeon's hooing? Finally, out of curiosity, I pulled off the metal cover and peered into the hole. It was empty. There was nothing left of the little pigeon family but a few scattered twigs and half an eggshell.

Bubbling with triumph and glee, I called Laura to give her a report.

"Something must have attacked it," she said. "You're lucky. Get that hole filled in before another pigeon lays eggs. And if it happens again, maybe you'll be able to do more than just not harm them. Maybe you'll be able to welcome them into your life."

My virtuous self-satisfaction rapidly dissipated. Maybe I would. Probably not next time. But maybe, with practice, and a few hundred more chances, I finally will.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Sunday, May 27: Bill McKeever, acharya and early director of Karme-Choling, remembers his early times with the Vidyadhara and the center

It was Bill's second dathun. At the end of his first -- the first dathun altogether, in 197_ -- he had thought himself a hero, more than a hero, and was filled with dismay when Rinpoche said: "The real practice starts when you leave."

In the third week of his second one, he suddenly panicked. "What am I doing here?" he asked himself. "These people are full of shit. I've got to get away." He ducked out, ran to his car and, too impatient to go by the road, drove it right across the hayfields in his haste -- where, after the rains, it got stuck in a muddy ditch. He gunned it. The wheels spun. "I was stuck," he said.

He climbed out to survey the damage, glanced up at the shrine room -- and saw that everybody in the dathun was staring out the windows. The leader extended his arm, crooked his finger and beckoned him.

"That was my great escape," he said. "I'm really grateful to that ditch. If it weren't for that, I would have headed for New Haven or New York or someplace. Who knows what would have happened?"

* * *

A bit later, in the Vidyadhara's room, Bill asked about a picture of what looked like a Japanese girl. Rinpoche looked at him, he recalled, and said: "That's not a girl. It's Kobo-Daishi" -- Kukai, the early-ninth century monk and scholar who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism, which is Japanese Vajrayana.

"But he didn't get all the transmissions," Rinpoche continued.

"How do you know?" Bill asked -- a question he said that wouldn't have occurred to him later on, when he knew the Vidyadhara and his ways better.

Rinpoche said: "He didn't know how to perpetuate Buddhism into the future. Shingon is great. It's the full traditions of tantras. But they didn't know how to project the lineage over into the future."

"You've figured that out?" Bill asked.

"Oh, yes," the Vidyadhara said. We know how to do these things in our lineage. It won't be what you think. It may not be what you like. But we know how to do it in the Kagyu lineage."

Later, Bill said, after everything happened, including the chaos of the Vajra Regent, he thought back on that conversation -- one that seems too wholly accurate: the continuance of the lineage in our community, but not, perhaps, as we'd expected.

* * *

As a young and raw attendant -- a precursor to the kusung, the Vajra Guards who care for the Vidyadhara's clothes and personal needs -- Bill remembers being hopelessly inept. When he cooked Rinpoche rice, for instance, he scorched it. "Looks like it's burned," the Vidyadhara said as he served it, in a kindly enough voice.

Another time, on a winter's evening, Rinpoche asked for a bowl of fruit. Bill scrambled among the cans on Karme-Choling kitchen shelves, pulling one down after another until he came up with a dusty tin of plums.

Brandishing it, he burst into Rinpoche's bedroom. "Is this all right?" he demanded, waving it about.

Rinpoche looked up and said, sweetly: "Must you be so dumb and aggressive?"

Bill stood silently for a moment, flattened.

"The plums are fine," the Vidyadhara said, while Bill slunk out of the room to find a can opener and a bowl.

* * *

In the earliest years, Rinpoche's students had only the vaguest idea of who he was and how to treat him, Bill said. Once, when Rinpoche was fresh from Samye-Ling, the Buddhist meditation center he had founded in Scotland in the mid-60's, he and the three directors of Karme-Choling disagreed about a course of action.

"I think you'd better do as we say," a director told him. "After all, we can always get another lama."

Bill remembers the room growing close and the atmosphere threatening. "It was my first experience with Rinpoche throwing black air," he said -- referring to the wrathful quality a powerful lama can exude. "Rinpoche threw something at the person."

Afterwards, Rinpoche said: "The battle of spiritual materialism was first fought at Karme-Choling. The Kagyu lineage won -- barely."

"It wasn't a forgone conclusion," Bill said. "Nowadays, we tend to think that of course things would have turned out. But they might not have. The basic miracle was that Rinpoche was able to turn people like you and me into dharma students."

* * *

Some time later, when Bill was preparing to leave Karme-Choling, he asked the Vidyadhara what he should have learned from his years as director.

"For one thing," Rinpoche replied, "you might learn how you've been mistreating me all these years."

This threw Bill and caused him to think. He repeated the conversation to the other Karme-Choling administrators and board members. They all pondered. Then they came up with what they thought would be a suitably luxurious offering to expiate their apparent years of neglect and improper treatment of their guru.

Curiously, the Vidyadhara's reaction to the board's munificence of the board have gone unrecorded.

* * *

Once, Rinpoche and Eido Roshi were sitting together. Rinpoche asked, in his characteristically high and precise voice, "Roshi, what's your favorite color?"

Roshi thought for a moment, Bill recalls, and said, in a low, growly voice: "My favorite color? "Black, I think. What's your favorite color, Rinpoche?"

"Red!" Ripoche said, emphatically.

Later, thinking back on that exchange, Bill said he thought about how appropriate each man's choice was, both for themselves and the Mahayana and the Vajrayana, their respective Buddhist traditions.

Black, he realized, is the color of emptiness, of shunyata. And red -- along with other vivid hues, is the color of the luminous display of the Vajra world."

* * *

On building Karme-Choling:

The remodeling and expansion of Karme-Choling was done in anticipation of His Holiness the 16th Karmapa's visit in 1976.

It is still true that only the main shrine room and the front, the original, section of the old farmhouse is visible from the driveway. If you've ever wondered why the other wings are more or less hidden from immediate view, it's because the early administrators were "shy" about it, said Bill. They worried that the residents of tiny Barnet would object to a project of that magnitude.

And indeed, they did -- almost -- have trouble with the fire marshal. The first one they dealt with was a relaxed kind of fellow, and approved the expansion plans without putting anything in writing. After his death of a heart attack, Bill visited the new marshal, who was much more punctilious about paperwork. When he heard what was happening, he said: "You can't build a building like this in Vermont."

These weren't just plans, he told the marshal. The building was half completed. "The future of Karme-Choling hung in balance," he said.

The marshal was silent for a bit. Finally he said: "Well, I guess we'll just have to grandfather it in."

At that, Bill said, his heart started beating again.

* * *

The mortgage for the expansion of Karme-Choling in the mid-70's was huge, the biggest Vajradhatu had undertaken at that point, said Bill. But the Vermont assessors couldn't see the use of the place -- or at least couldn't imagine it would have any resale value. Their assessment was for the value of the property minus demolition costs. As for the building itself? Maybe, one of the assessors opined, the shrine room might be worth something by turning it into a stable and using it to house cows.

The motive for the renovation was the visit of His Holiness the Karmapa in 1976. "It was a huge labor of love," said Bill. For months, 52 carpenters worked two 12-hour shifts everyday to meet the visit deadline -- on a salary of $10 a week.

At the Gampopa seminar in 1971, Rinpoche called Tibetan Buddhism a bhakti, or devotional religion. "Pure devotion built this place," Bill said.

* * *

The Vidyadhara wanted the shrine room to be a huge clear expanse without pillars or any obstacles to the open space. Harold Rolls, the architect, argued with him. It can't be done, he told Rinpoche. There have to be pillars to hold the roof up. But after weeks of working on the problem, he finally came up with a design that would keep the space open and the roof securely up.

He met with Rinpoche, who said: "I think the shrine room should have four pillars."

"Rinpoche, is this a joke?" Harold said.

"No," Rinpoche said, and pointing to the architectural drawings, said, "They should go here, and here, and here, and here.'

"You mean decorative pillars?" Harold asked hopefully.

"No," Rinpoche said. "Pillars to hold the roof up."

Eventually, Bill said, Harold stopped reeling, calmed down and got to work on the pillars.

* * *

The distinctive little lights in the shrine room were designed by the Vidyadhara. His idea, said Bill, was to make them look like butter lamps in the ceiling.

* * *

Karl Springer, an early board member, had the twin abilities of rousing both people's energy and motivation to work hard and of irritating them immensely in the process. As the son of a haberdasher, he also dressed in impeccably tailored suits.

During the renovation, he employed both of these talents to their fullest, Bill recalled. At one point, he leaned against one of the pillars, which was covered with wet orange paint. Nobody said anything, said Bill. "They just watched as he was walking through the shrine room yelling at everybody, with an orange stripe down his brand-new pinstriped suit."

* * *

As it happened, much of the earth below the planned expansion was solid rock that required the use of dynamite and a 2-1/2 ton steel net. The blasting could be heard a mile away -- and was shattered to the residents at Karme-Choling, especially the participants of a dathun. There was a new blast every 45 minutes -- which meant that every half-hour, the participants would begin hunching their shoulders in anticipation. They'd wait, the minutes ticking by -- and then, KKKKEEEEECCCHHH!

They exhaled, regrouped and relaxed -- until the time came for the next explosion. KKKEEECCCHHH!!!

* * *

When the bulldozer hit the huge granite boulder on the edge of the living room, the foreman went to Bill to ask what he wanted done. Should they leave it in or blast it out.

"I went back and forth," said Bill. "In. Out. In. Out." Finally, when the decision couldn't be put off any longer, he said: "In."

The living room was built around the rock, in a much-talked about design that was much lauded in local architectural circles and that won awards. "My fault," said Bill. "If you don't like it, you've got me to blame."

* * *

Karme-Choling needed its own well for its growing community and hundreds of program participants. They hired local drillers, who drilled one hole after another without success.

When Bill mentioned this to the Vidyadhara, who was in Boulder then, he was told: "Why didn't you ask me?"

The next time Rinpoche was at Karme-Choling, he went out and walked the land, peering at it closely. He finally pointed to one spot, saying: "Drill here."

It was four feet from a dry hole. "But, Sir," Bill said. "We drilled 400 feet down here and got nothing."

Rinpoche repeated his instructions. The drillers were brought back and began work. They reached 400 feet without finding water. When Bill reported this to Rinpoche, he was instructed to keep on going, to drill deeper. After only 30 more feet, the men reached a well so rich that it became the highest-producing well in that whole area of Vermont.

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Early Sunday -- Homecoming at Karme-Choling: the 20th Anniversary of the Vidyadhara's cremation:

I came expecting a reunion of all of us old guys -- senior students, as we more politely call ourselves -- and a weekend of reminiscing. But I know very few of these people. Most never met the Vidyadhara. Some are here at Karme-Choling for the first time. They come from Vermont but also from as far as Hawaii. As Jane Arthur, the director, said "Maybe there're the ones who need it."

But then, at the New York Shambhala Center, where there are hundreds of new people with more stopping in every week, the most mundane story about the Vidyadhara is entrancing.

It's pleasant here -- mellow, warm and breezy. Soft green grass. Pleasantly strong coffee. The sounds of fire puja bells drifting down. Kids shooting basketballs and small children literally gamboling on the lawn.

In the afternoon we hike to the purkhang. At the tori gate, clouds of juniper smoke -- so evocative. We circle the purkhang and plump down onto little benches. The sun heats my face. A bored little boy trots off for a glass of water. Carrying it back, he walks slowly and holds it with both hands, frowning a little, clearly focused on not spilling. In the silence and softness, I am very moved.

Sitting, I relax. I feel expansive. Then I feel irritated. Too hot. Expand. Thoughts of the cremation. Wide sky. Relax. Impatience. Exasperation.

Still crazy about all these years. But after, when I see I have no soap for my shower, I dig for the generic bottle under the sink. I don't steal somebody else's from the cubby.

I'll take progress wherever I can get it.

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Saturday morning, May 26-- Karme-Choling Homecoming for the 20th anniversary of the Vidyadhara's cremation

It's a long, slow ride from Port Authority in New York to White River Junction by bus. Deadly boring, to put it mildly. It makes the contrast between Karme-Choling and the city even more striking -- another world. From the porch, the peeper frogs chatter as loudly as city traffic, but much more melodiously. Once in a while, a bullfrog twangs loudly -- country music-like. A couple of people puff cigarettes in the corner, as always.

The morning is as fine as the one 20 years ago when thousands of people swarmed onto the land for the cremation. Hauling daypacks, babies and thermoses and sandwiches, they hiked up to the upper meadow, clogging the path through the woods and spreading out densely throughout the fields. To the side was the purkhang --the corpse-house -- white concrete, 108 feet tall, decorated with Buddhist designs and topped with a gold moon disc and sun. Essentially it was the oven for burning the Vidyadhara's kudung.

For weeks the kudung, his corpse, mummified in salt and wrapped in linens under a tent of silks and brocades, had been sitting in the shrine room. His possessions surrounded it -- a gold Rolex watch, a tidy array of colorful pins and bars and medal, an impeccably tailored suit, a glorious kimono or two, and ties as bright as jeweled mosaics. Not that many items, all told, but each one fine, substantial -- weighty with yun.

Day and night a kasung stood at attention and periodically circled it, bowing, hand on heart, at each of the four sides.

My job on cremation day was handling the press. We were supposed to corral them into a corner of the meadow, answer their questions, escort them past the purkhang and the lamas and the monks and the Mukpo family -- and keep them from roaming among the crowds, gathering quotes from the community's loose canons. Naturally, they didn't like being lassoed. One by one, they slipped off into the welter, cannily homing on the exact ones we were supposed to shield them from -- the sardonic women, the men who cracked cynical jokes, the ones who were guilelessly confiding.

I didn't care. It was weird -- answering business-like questions from indifferent strangers under the hot blue sky, with every dharma friend, acquaintance, ex-lover and human annoyance out there somewhere, with His Holiness Khyentse Rinpoche and the other lamas and monks chanting in guttural voices and the Vidyadhara dead and about to be cremated.

"How many acres is Karme-Choling? How do you spell Chug-yum Trunk-pa? Does Buddhism have two d's?"

The sun blazed on my neck and face. Sweat trickled down my back.
The bagpiper came first -- full Scottish dress, his instrument wailing plaintively. The Dapons bearing the palanquin-- its brocades and silk and parasol waving in the breeze. The kasung in crisp khakis walked behind in formation, step by disciplined step.

My eyes stung. Sara Kapp -- angular and gorgeous -- gave me a hug.

"What is Vajradhatu? What do you Buddhists believe? Is it true that Trunk-pa drank alcohol?"

A young monk who had never met the Vidyadhara darted forward to light the fire in the purkhang. The smoke rose. The fire smoldered. The day stretched on. The people massed over the meadows chanted and chatted and ate and stood in an unending line to offer khatas to the purkhang and the burning kudung. The air glittered and filled with emotion. The sky arced higher and higher.

I escorted small groups of journalists around the purkhang, passed His Holiness Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche and young Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche and Khenpo Karthar and the other lamas and monks. They peered dispassionately into the open slots on the purkhang where the flames were leaping. "What do the designs mean? How do you spell Rinp-o-chay? Which one is the Dalai Lama?"

The purkhang, the whole scene, exuded power. It was like walking through heat from the flames that made the air shimmer. I seriously wanted the journalists to shut up.

Larry Mermelstein appeared and said: "I'm a Tibetan translator. I'm here to answer your questions about the ritual. I have very little time."

Silence. Then a fat little cameraman from a local TV station, clearly exasperated, said: "Yes! When's it going to start?"

Larry paused. "It's been going on since morning, if you haven't noticed."

"I mean the burning!" he retorted. "The flames! I need to make my deadline!"

By mid-afternoon I deserted my post to seek out friends in the meadow. By then the fat cameraman had his flames. I found Aviva from New York. "I know somebody who'd be perfect for you," she said. "I've got to introduce you."

As she spoke, the flames engulfed the Vidyadhara's head. It shuddered, fire shooting straight up. I stared straight at it, transfixed. It seemed alive -- head ablaze, in a kind of naked power and pure magnetism. The heat burst through the top of the purkhang, exploding a section into tiny concrete bits.

"You'd love him," Aviva said. "He's just right for you."

The flames quieted. The chanting wound down. The woman who drove me up had to get going. We got to the far edge of the meadow and I turned and looked back. "Look!" I cried. The sky was cloudless. Around the sun were rings of high, metallic-like rainbows. The anthem began -- a few people and then thousands, standing erect throughout the meadow, singing in rousing voices.

It was over, and just beginning.